Відео

I love WPL products I use the WPL grease and the forkboost lube all of the time,it works great at freeing up stuck forks when restoring bikes, they are a very good local company from here in BC , i havent tried the chain lube yet i have been using wd40 bike specialist chain lube and i kind of dont like it because you have to shake the can to get it to spray and when it does spray it makes a big mess, ill definetly order some WPL chain lube once i run out

God bless your bro I thought u could never pump my tires again thank you for this helpful video🙏🏾

why would anyone create such an idiotic device?!

Thank you

I will try

My audi epc and engine light in on. And it won't start. It will turn over but not start.

These were the days of gorgeous bikes. In the mid 1980s I bought a Ciocc frameset, just because I always wanted one with the bright red paint and half chrome forks, and half chromed seat and chain stays. But...I was going to use it for pro racing and it was too far out of alignment to use. Still want that bike 40 years later... I will have to build it myself if I want it now. Ended up racing on a custom built steel bike made by my local frame builder.

Good suggestions, I never heard a UA-cam video talk about cleaning out the debris. After changing thousands of flats over the last 55 years of serious cycling, many years ago decided to use strong tires....and then to find that strong tire. There was only one. 7 years of using the tires that bragged about flat protection and none were any good. One tire that was boasting protection I got 3 flats in 300 miles. I am an X pro racing cyclist, and log huge miles, am highly skilled and good eyes, I don't go riding through debris, always looking for it. But still the flats especially when forced to ride in bikes lanes. For the last 3 years been riding Schwalbe Marathon Plus 26x2 tires, NO FLATS. Gave up the road bike and now convert hardtail mountain bikes to the road so I can run this size and width. Between the tires and strong wheels and other upgrades; I can say I ride the strongest most depedable road bike in the world. Cycling is so much more fun when not worrying about flats all the time or blowouts at high speed. I gave up the 25-28mm tired road bike when using the strongest 700c X 28mm tire and got a blow-out on the front descending a long mountain grade, just because I hit a tiny little stone. Now I am safe.

I have the same racing 5 fulcrum on my bike since 2012. I ride average 1500 to 2000 a year. Belgium. Also muddy roads mixed with stones. Still the wheels look fine. Never issues with spokes. Even now i 'm planing to turn them into tubeless. Buth those wheels are super! I'm 180 and about 84 kg.

Tysm 🙏

I have this black raleigh gp bike in 59cm and a similar complete 54cm raleigh 12 speed with exage motion/suntour shifters. The frames look identical. Can the 12 speed components all swap to the 10 speed bike, as mentioned earlier both bikes are complete.

The new thumbnail in! Trying my best!

The best is the Center pull brake, it works together and won't give problem (Except change the brake pads)

If you turn the screw all the way clockwise but it’s still rubbing, any advice?

Thanks!!

Thank you for the review. Would have been much easier to have a total picture about the tool chest if it wasn't filmed so close to the box. Maybe next time.

Issue is presta itself

You might focus?

You place your camera so that we can see what you're doing.

I also thought it could be a bent axle, but after changing my axle for a new one nothing changed, the wobble is EXACTLY the same. There is nothing wrong with the bike in the video. All the unevenness you see is due to machining imperfection. The freewheel wobbles not because of the axle, but because the thread on the hub on which it is mounted, is not machined on perfectly centered. If you do a search here on YT for "freewheel wobble," you will find out that this wobble is common and normal on freewheels. It does not affect shifting (if your derailleurs are properly adjusted).

I can not thank you enough... big thanks.. heart filled thanks... thanks from the heart .. I changed the whole fucking tube.. then tried to pump... didn't work... took the tyre casing out.. tried to pump just the tube... to realise I couldn't pump... I could not pump... I could not pump...

Does my chain has to be tightened

Whenever I backpedal my cycle the deruilar comes forward why it is

Hey wipe that runaway oil maddone.

Very helpful video!

How to remove this defect Valve?

Fingers cross my problem is this easy to fix!

Stupid video

Good afternoon! I want to build my Superbe Pro rear derailleur with Superbe cranks and Stronglight 55/48 chainrings. This groupset belonged to the “Artiach” team. I know it is a time trial development, but I really want to try it. My question is whether your ideal cassette is a 12/21 7V or if you would also accept a 12/23 7V. I look forward to hearing from you and to learning from you! Thanks in advance!

Here in Brazil we have a local bike brend Caloi, that produced a 10 speed bike colled Caloi 10, from 1972 until 1996, if I am not wrong, in the 70s they used the Suntour Honor in those bikes superb derailer, even today a prefer to buy a used suntour to use in my old bikes than to buy a new one.

Those are called "dork discs" and everyone knows they are like reflectors - to be removed IMMEDIATELY after getting that new bike home! Ironically a spoke protector only protects the inner 20% of the spokes at the hub. They do nothing to prevent a derailleur from hitting the other 80% of the spoke's length! Bend your derailleur hanger and/or fiddle with the limit screws incorrectly and it will hit the spokes with ease! Incidence of derailleurs into spokes has indeed been a large liability issue with bicycles for decades. But the reality is if you don't keep tabs on your bike - especially after taking a spill, you may suffer catastrophic rear derailleur and wheel destruction. The SRAM transmission was designed partially to address and eliminate this issue.

In the past almost all bikes came with this accessory. Made of metal or plastic.

Don't pry up the battery cover. Simply press down on the top edge of the cover. The bottom will pop up. Also, make sure the red o-ring is properly seated before replacing cover.

Amazon isn't what it was in the beginning. It is a shithole marketplace where the sellers are abused by amazon and most reputable sellers are out of there and the only ones present jack up prices to hell and back to cover all the fees of amazon and eventual scams that chargeback and return empty packs .

I had 3 spokes that got cut out when a badly adjusted rear derailleur sent the chain into my wheel... I now have a spoke protector.

Thanks everyone for commenting and if you need help, just ask questions.

So this video isn't necessarily how to fix an EPC light. The title seems a bit misleading but I'm betting all those views have netted a few bucks. I digress. To summarize the video: 1. Scan your car for codes. 2. Research parts related to the code, and search for the cheapest possible price for the part. 3. Replace the part and hope it fixes the issue. 4. Return the part if it doesn't fix the issue. Full disclosure, I hate stealerships as much as the next guy, so unless there's a recall, I avoid dealer service departments like the plague and only use reputable independent shops if I can't fix something myself. Not to bag on this guy, and I appreciate that he seems to be trying to help people avoid costly dealer repairs, but what's being suggested in the video just isn't sound advice. The problem is, simply buying the cheapest-priced part can be seriously risky. There is no end to all the cheap Chinese parts available on Amazon, etc., that might not only end up being defective, but could potentially damage your vehicle. I replaced leaky power steering hoses on my truck with parts that were less than half the price of the factory parts. Guess what? Less than two years later, both hoses are leaking again. So now I get to spend more money to buy quality parts this time, and at least 3 hours to replace them. Thankfully I caught the leak in time before my power steering pump and steering gear were ruined. Second, the suggestion that you can just throw a cheap throttle body on your car -- and if it doesn't fix it, you can just return it -- is simply terrible advice. I have never known a parts store to allow a return on a used fuel-related component (or electrical component, for that matter) unless it is defective. Amazon may be the exception to that, but then again it's probably not the best idea to ship anything that has had fuel in it anyway. I don't think the postal service or any other shipping company would appreciate that. Bottom line: 1. Get your car scanned and thoroughly research the code(s), then research how to actually test potentially faulty components rather than just start throwing parts at your car. Shooting the parts cannon is neither an efficient nor cost-effective substitute for basic troubleshooting. 2. Don't be fooled into thinking any cheap part is going to work. You could be out more money -- and time -- in the long run by using inferior parts. Check user reviews and ratings before purchasing an aftermarket part. I'm not implying this is always the case, but sometimes factory parts might just be the best option, even if they are more expensive.

I pull my brakes and it brakes , but doesn't getback to its original position when i release them

Yeah amazon is a hit or a miss, sometimes things will be overpriced but other times you can get a good deal compared to other places.

Thanks brother! This was really super helpful... I am recently moving to the Netherlands from India...and there are more cycles there...I am in the process of restoring my 15 year old 21 - speed MTB...I don't find the original parts anymore so I just decided to go with restoring the original 😁 and You my friend have helped me a lot

Best explanation found on UA-cam for downtube front derailleur, thanks a lot!

... What? I want my minute of life back.

Wow thanks for the tip Ivan :) , I can’t believe I never thought to use a vacuum usually I would just shake the tire but that doesn’t get all the bits of debris out.

Highly appreciated kind comments because lots Of us have benefited from this video.

Reminds me alot of breakfree clp for firearms.

Presta Valve ring is for securing the tube during the first time you pump it up so you don't have to force the valve through with your other hand. I'd get rid of it, if you tighten it too much it can damage your valve core.

Gru!

Thank you

You absolutely don't need that lock ring for a presta tube. Only required for a tubeless valve stem.

Use some thread locker on it